Dr Dorel Bondoc
Muzeul Olteniei, Craiova
poziţia actuală: muzeograf
Photo: http://www.mnir.ro/cercetare/santiere/racari/colectiv/team_frame.htm
Dr Dorel Bondoc
Muzeul Olteniei, Craiova
poziţia actuală: muzeograf
Photo: http://www.mnir.ro/cercetare/santiere/racari/colectiv/team_frame.htm
Ada-Kaleh island (Fig. 1) had lain in the middle of the Danube, before it was covered by the waters of the river, downstream the Iron Gates, at a distance of 4 km south-east from Dierna (Orsova) and 18 km from Drobeta (Tumu-Severin). In the region, the climate is mild, wet in winter and hot in summer. The mediterranean influence allowed the adaptation of some exotic species of plants and animals.
This paper is meant to describe, as far as the available knowledge allows it, a historical and archaeological monument, which was lost for good. Ada-Kaleh island was 1.750 km long and 400-500 m wide and lay in Mehedinti county, Romania.
At the beginning of the 15th century, the island was occupied by Turks, who intuited its remarkable strategical importance for the development of the river trade on the Danube, after the exit from Kazan region. In 1718, as a result of the treaty from Passarowitz (Pojarevat), the northern Serbia, Banat and Oltenia became possessions of the Austrians, as was also the case of Ada-Kaleh island which bore the name New Orsova then.
The Austrians built a strong fortification of "Vauban" type (Fig. 2) on the island. In 1739, after the treaty from Belgrad, Austria returned Serbia and Oltenia to Turkey. As a result the island was occupied again by Turks, who gave it the name Ada-Kaleh, which may be translated as "the island of the fortress." The toponym can also be found in the documents of that time as: Ada Kale, Ada Cale, Adakaleh, Ada Kaleh or Adacale.
The efforts of the Austrians to retrieve the island between 1789-1790, were unsuccessful. After 1829, together with the treaty from Adrianopol, the Romanian States obtained many facilities such as: administrative autonomy, free trade, rulers appointed for their life time, etc. Therefore, the strategical importance of the island diminished considerably after applying the stipulations of the treaty. At the Peace Congress in Berlin (1878), the situation of the island wasn't raised for discussion during the negotiations, it was actually forgotten, continuing to be an isolated possession of Turkey. On the 22nd November 1885, the island was declared open and from now on, the military functions of the island were ended. This was the situation of the island until 1919, when it was returned to Romania, under the right of self-determination of the inhabitants. The situation was registered by the treaty from Trianon (1920) and it was admitted by Turkey only in 1923, as part of the treaty of Lausanne.
After 1923, the island became a touristic paradise. The ruined fortifications, the occupations and customs ofthe natives, very interesting from the ethnographical point of view, the exoticism of the climate, fauna and flora were interesting sights for visitors and local tourism was developing. The economic situation flourished as never before, especially after 1931, when the former king of Romania, Carol II, visited the island and the inhabitants were given many privileges.
There are more details in some topographic materials from the modern age. Thus, a map from the 18th century: Plan de l'Ysle de Orsova et de la fortification situee sur le Danuve... drawn by Joseph Deharo, Viscount of Lincourt, presents an Austrian fortification of "Vauban" type on Ada-Kaleh island. At present, the map is at the Museum of Archaeology in Istanbul, inv. 5842. Inside the Austrian fortification, there is a structure in the shape of a quadriburgium with rhomboidal comer minarets (Fig. 3). When I used this information for the first time, I was not sure of its Roman origin. The rhomboidal shape of the comer minarets suggests that it might be a structure which is a part of the Austrian fortification. Anyway, rhomboidal minarets are not unusual in the Roman age; there are similar constructions at Transdierna, in Dacia Ripensis, today Tekija, in Serbia.
The fortifying of the places on Ada-Kaleh island and Orsova was registered by F. von Reilly on the map Karte von dem Osmanischen Reiche in Europa, from 1796. This map might have been taken again under the same name by F. L. Gusefeld in 1802. Both maps present distinctly the fortifications from Ada-Kaleh island (= New Orschova) and Orsova (= Alt Orschova). It can't be specified if they were Roman or mediaeval constructions.
Meanwhile, new information has become available. Recently, a map drawn in 1744, by Avon von Bellavich, at 1: 68.000 has been commented upon. The title of the map is Plan des gegen das Turkische Gebeit ausgestellen Banatischen Cordons mittelst welchen die bereits vorhandene gut-und Brauchbahre alte, dann die neu zu errichten antragede Wachlehaltnussen als Chardaquen, Wachthauser, Erd-und Ruhr-Hutten nach ihrer verschiendenen Bau-Arth mit distinguierten Farben aufgezeichnet seynd. At present, the map is at the War Archives in Vienna. The area of Orsova contains also a draft of the Austrian fortification of "Vauban" type from Ada-Kaleh island (Fig. 4); the island is named here with the old title Insel Orsova. As in the case of Joseph Deharo's map, discussed above, inside the Austrian fortification, there can be clearly noticed a quadriburgium with corner minarets, protruded out of the enclosure. Unlike Joseph Deharo's map, on the one drawn by Avon von Bellavich, the corner minarets are almost round. The difference can't be explained.
The raising of the Austrian fortifications of "Vauban" type on older ruins, actually over the Roman foundation is not an unusual fact, this situation having been recorded in other places (see for example, the situation from Alba Iulia, where over the walls of the Roman camp Apulum there was raised a fortification of "Vauban" type; it is also the case at Singidunum camp and that of the fortification from Pancevo and from Sapaja island, which were superposed by Austrian fortifications of the same type).
In order to support the existence of a Roman fortification on Ada-Kaleh island, there can be invoked another topographic source. This is a military map (Fig. 5), made by the Topographic Board of the Ministry of Defence of Romania (R.S.R.) in 1962, at the time when the island hadn't been flooded yet and no archaeological excavations had been made. The map presents a rectangular fortification (probable size: 25Ox2OO metres) divided north-south and east-west by cardo and decumanus maximus. All these indicate a Roman camp. From the middle of the eastern side of the fortification, where probably there was a gate, there started a road to the eastern extremity of the island. In this point, the map shows a circular construction; these might be the ruins of a minaret for observation and/or signaling.
Among the topographic sources quoted above, there is an discrepancy concerning the shape of the Roman fortification on Ada-Kaleh island. On the one hand, the Austrian map by Avon von Bellavich registers a fortification of quadriburgium type, dated probably from the Late Roman period. On the other hand, the military map drawn by the Topographic Board of the Ministry of Defence of Romania (R.S.R.) in 1962, presents a construction which seems to be a Roman camp from the 2nd - 3rd centuries. For the time being, this discrepancy can't be explained and there isn't any reason to suspect the information given by the two maps of inaccuracy
"Ada Kalessi" is the correct name in Turkish, meaning "the island of the fortress" using the possessive form. "Ada Kale" means "island fortress".
Before 1739 the island was known as "Ada Kalessi", and there was a fortress on the island before the Austrians.
Painting of Ada Kaleh by an unknown artist, dated 1909.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
A painting, artist unknown, of the Island of Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh, an island in the middle of the Danube, just downstream from Orsova. The strategical importance of the Danube defile, which linked the city of Belgrade to Vidin - its source of supply, made the Austrians build on the island facing Orsova a fortress that was named Ada-Kaleh.
The works were started in 1691, resumed in 1717 and completed in 1737. The strongholds of Ada-Kaleh and Tekis, by their position on the Danube, made up the so-called 'Gibraltar of the Ottoman Empire'.
The island of Ada Kaleh was flooded by the Portile de Fier (Iron Gates) dam. The dam flooded the area by 1971 to an altitude of 69.5 m above sea level. Part of the fortress was proposed to be re-erected on the Simian Island, downstream of the new dam.
Photo and text: The Iron Gate Atlas
Ada Kaleh (Turkish for "Island Fortress") was a small island on the Danube populated by Turks that was submerged during the building of the Iron Gates hydro plant. The island was about 3 km downstream from Orşova and measured 1.7 km by 400- 500 m.
Photo: Wikipedia
A similar view from a slightly different angle of Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
1916 photograph of Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ebay
This is a very valuable photograph, the only aerial photo I have seen of Ada Kaleh. The original was in sepia tones, which means that it was possibly taken in the 1920s or 1930s.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh, view of the Landungsplatz, or landing place, or quay.
The black and white image from 1915 has a little better resolution than the hand tinted postcard, and shows floating at anchor what looks like a larger version of the Romanian Cin, or dugout canoe, adapted to accommodate passengers.
Photo: Ebay
View of the quay at Ada Kaleh, a little further back than the photograph above, with some of the boats which serviced the transportation needs of the island drawn up at the shore.
This photograph appears to have been taken in the early 20th century to judge from the fashions.
Photo: Ebay
Ada Kaleh, view from the Romanian bank at river level with the Mosque shown clearly, taken during the Communist era in Romania.
Photo: Ebay
Ada Kaleh, view of the coast of the island. I would be interested to learn what the small white structure is for.
Photo: Ebay
A hand tinted photograph of Ada Kaleh Island, of the type known as a "double postcard", possibly around 1912.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
This 1936 photograph was taken with a telephoto lens, or was blown up on the enlarger to give the same effect. It shows a ship, a large ferry, tied up at the side of Ada Kaleh Island.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
View of the deck of one of the tourist ferries which plied the Danube, showing the glass roof and sides. A hand tinted sepia photograph.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
This old engraving has been freely interpreted from an original drawing or photograph.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
A postcard from Ada Kaleh saying "Greetings from Ada Kaleh".
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh on a box of matches from 1936.
Ada Kaleh, cabinet matches, Bucuresti match factory of "Chibriturile" S.A.R., 1936
Label size 122x67 mm
(text from http://phillumeny.onego.ru/)
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
Ada Kaleh.
The text on the photograph reads:
The view from Alion Mountain.
The plans for the improvement of shipping on the Donau and the building of the Canal were begun on 15 September 1890 and were completed in the year 1896.
The project was planned by Superintendent Géza, who was born in Zichyfalva 13.11.1864.
(This town of Zichyfalva has had a chequered history. It was successively part of Austria, Hungary, Yugoslavia and now Serbia. From 1787 to the present it held the names Zichydorf/Zichyfalva/Mariolana and is now Plandiste, in the province of Vojvodina, Serbia. Plandiste is about 85 kilometers northeast of Belgrade. see http://feefhs.org/zva/zvillage.html )
Electric light was brought to Orsova by the Ganz Company of Budapest in 1910.
The main street of Orsova was sealed in 1910.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
Faded colour photograph of Ada Kaleh, possibly just before it was covered by the rising waters of the dam.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
View from the new site of Orsova, of the Danube, where Ada Kaleh has been swallowed up by the waters of the dam.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
This is a photo of Simian Island, where part of Ada Kaleh was recreated.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ruins of the fort at Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh Fortress.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
Ada Kaleh Fortress.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
This is a photographic montage of the catacombs below the fort with, superimposed, a photo of a Turkish resident.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Postcard showing the method of construction and details of the corners of the walls of the fort, which were constructed of brick with dressed stone reinforcements at the corners.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Photos showing the ruins of passageways and possibly storage areas beneath the old fort on Ada Kaleh, and a view of the river from the island.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Postcard of the Ada Kaleh fort during WWI. Photograph taken looking through one of the main stone gates with a "dropped" keystone in the arch.
Note the way that the fort has been used as dwellings, and the fence on top of the wall, designating a property boundary.
Photo: Ebay
Image of someone who appears to be sewing, with a good view of one of the watch towers on the wall of the fort.
Photograph apparently taken from within one of the "root cellars" which were semicircular strongly constructed arches bermed with earth, under which food such as potatoes and similar goods were stored, to keep them cool (but not frozen) and dry.
Photo: Ebay
A group of people at the entrance to one of the gates in the walls in the old fort on Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Main entry gate to Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Main entry gate to Ada Kaleh, taken at a time when the fort was not maintained well, and weeds were growing in much of the structure.
Photo: Ebay
The main gate of the fortress of Ada Kaleh, apparently taken in the 1950s or 1960s judging by the dress design.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
A view of the street to the bazaar, looking through the main gate, apparently taken in the 1950s or 1960s judging by the dress design.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Hand coloured photo of one of the more affluent parts of Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ebay
Another view of the same scene, taken within a few moments of the previous photograph.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
A general view of the private dwellings on Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Dispensarul on Ada Kaleh.
Dispensarul is a Romanian word for a health centre, but for a small place, such as a little village, with a doctor coming only a few days per week.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Mosque at Ada Kaleh. Some photographs (such as this one) show the mosque with the minaret integral with the building, other later photographs show that the mosque has been altered to include a well made octagonal minaret separate to the main building as well as what looks like a pagoda in the grounds beside the minaret. The photographs appear to show the same mosque at different periods after alterations. The buildings in the photos themselves are identical in construction, however chimneys in the roof shown in some photos appear and disappear in separate photographs of what is obviously the same building,
Note what appears to be a group of people on the entry ramp to the gate into the grounds of the mosque.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Mosque at Ada Kaleh, built in 1909. Photograph taken in winter, when the tree was bare.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
1912 hand coloured photograph of the mosque and its garden, showing the dry moat and the stone walls on the side of the ramp leading to the gate at Ada Kaleh, as well as the new Minaret, although the pagoda has not been built yet.
Photo: Ebay
Photographs of the inside of the Mosque. Note the chandeliers, the staircase (to a pulpit?), and the famous carpet of the Ada Kaleh Mosque, made in Hereche Handicraft Centre, Turkey. The carpet has been located in the Constanţa mosque since 1965 and was brought from Ada-Kaleh island in 1965 as Sultan Abdul Hamid's donation.
The man in the photograph is reading from the Koran on his lap.
The right hand photograph is dated 1937.
Photo: Ebay
Mosque at Ada Kaleh. This shows the later alterations to the original building, including the separate minaret and the pagoda, which is not visible in the 1912 photo above.
The moat around the Mosque has been flooded in this photograph.
It seems that it may have been possible to get into the grounds of the mosque by boat, or at least very close to it, which would have made transport of heavy supplies for the Mosque much easier.
There appears also to be a low level path across the moat, just visible in this photograph.
Photo: Ebay
Hand coloured photograph of the mosque and its garden at Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Mosque at Ada Kaleh.
Note what appears to be an entry for boats in the high garden wall of the mosque.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Distant view of the Mosque at Ada Kaleh.
Note that modern houses appear to have been built on the ruins of the ancient fort, and the figure sitting on the culvert over what may be a sort of canal leading to the mosque.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ancient fortifications, with modern houses above. Photo taken in 1960.
Photo: Ebay
A postcard depicting the mosque on Ada Kaleh. Despite the appearance of this view, the Minaret was octagonal, not rectangular.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
A postcard depicting the mosque on Ada Kaleh, taken in the 1960s, from a vantage point on the other end of the building to the Minaret.
Photo: ebay
Ada Kaleh mosque.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
This is an unusual photo which shows both the ruins of the fortress as well as the minaret of the mosque.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
The gate in the colour photograph on the left is a recreation, using the same stone, of the entry shown in the centre and the right hand photograph, to the grounds of the original mosque on Ada Kaleh. It has been reconstructed on Şimian Island near Drobeta Turnu Severin.
You may see more text and images of this recreation of Ada Kaleh at New Ada Kaleh
The proportions of the gates and their general appearance are identical, although the extra, separate construction above the gate forming part of a wall around the Mosque has not been recreated.
The earlier centre photograph shows a ramp from a dry moat to the gate, the later right hand photograph shows the ramp and low stone walls erected on the ramp for safety of pedestrians have been removed, once the gate was restored to a position where the entry was at water level, accessible only by small water craft after the flooding of the moat.
On the earlier centre photograph, the shadows of the stone "minarets" can just be distinguished on the face of the stone entry way.
The Mosque originally had an integral minaret, and later when the separate better designed minaret was constructed, the builders also added a beautifully proportioned pagoda, as well as completing the flooding of the moat around the Mosque grounds. In addition, the Mosque was re-roofed with a better roof which had a larger protective eave over the walls.
Photo: Adrian Gheorghe (L), Ada Kaleh CD (Centre and right)
This is a stereographic view of the mosque at Ada Kaleh.
600 dpi image, 852 KB
Those skilled at unfocussing their eyes may be able to see the image in three dimensions without artificial aids.
Note that this photograph shows the new minaret, but the moat has not yet been flooded (or has been drained again), and the stone walls beside the ramp to the gate for pedestrian safety have been taken away. Note also the vines which have grown over much of the gate and the wall.
It should also be realised that the gate and the wall were there first, the mosque was put up much later than the gate and the wall, which were part of the original fortress erected on Ada Kaleh.
This appears to be a government building at Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
The Bazaar of Ada Kaleh.
The isle of Ada Kaleh is probably the most evocative victim of the Djerdap dam's construction. A Turkish enclave, it had a mosque and a thousand twisting alleys, and was known as a free port and smuggler's nest. Many other ethnic groups lived here beside Turks.
Photo: Wikipedia
Ada Kaleh Bazaar.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Hand tinted photograph of the monochrome print above of a stall and cafe on the outskirts of the bazaar at Ada Kaleh, adjacent to homes built on a small rise.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh Bazaar.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Photograph of what appears to be a shop with an outside awning for diners in the Ada Kaleh Bazaar.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh Bazaar. A postcard with the caption "Greetings from Ada Kaleh".
It is interesting to see children in the photo. It is a hand coloured sepia photograph, taken looking out of the compound, towards a gate through the wall of the fort.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh Bazaar. The quality of this shot is not high, but it can be seen that the caption reads "Orsova Ada Kaleh".
Note the awnings over the shop front in order to protect patrons from the heat of the sun. This shot is also taken looking out of the compound, towards a gate through the wall of the fort.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Postcard showing the bazaar at Ada Kaleh.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh bazaar.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
Ada Kaleh Bazaar. This is one of the better built sections of the bazaar, presumably catering for the tourist trade. Note the men on the left in western dress, perhaps friends of the photographer, and the others in red turbans, as well as the drain down the middle of the road, and the carpet seller on the right displaying his wares.
Photo: Ebay
The Rosenrahat of Ada Kaleh was a famous sweet.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
Ada Kaleh men's fashions.
Note the dagger in the central figure's waistband. He could be a wealthy man accompanied by his male servants or employees.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
Ada Kaleh woman.
This is a studio portrait, so the woman must be from a wealthy family.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
Bego Mustafa.
This is almost certainly the ruler of Ada Kaleh, around 1895 - 1900.
Photo: http://orsova.xhost.ro/_sgg/f10000.htm
Portrait of Bego Mustafa by Max Kurth
1900
Germanisches Nationalmuseum
Nürnberg
Photo: http://www.kunst-burgenlandkreis.de/kuenstler/Kurth/kurth.htm#1
Portrait of a group labelled "Youth of Ada Kaleh"
Photo: Ebay
Interior of a room richly decorated with turkish rugs and other decorations in the Drobeta Museum.
Photo: Ada Kaleh CD
|
New Ada Kaleh This area on Simian Island in the Danube recreates some of the architecture of the old Ada Kaleh, now beneath the waters of the hydro-electric dam. |